YOSEMITE
Welcome to the land of granite cliffs and towering trees slung among cotton candy skies
california tunnel tree
day one
A shrill 0600 alarm means snoozing til 0630 and out of the house by 0700. After turning around to grab our Canon Rebel T6 (cough… sean… cough), we were officially on the road by 0800. Getting to Yosemite National Park early is vital to avoid long waits at the entry gates. The three hour drive from Oakland is a blend of golden fields, dense forests, and pockets of tiny towns. The drive isn’t too scenic, so podcasts and 2000’s hip-hop are a must. Hitting the south entrance to the park around 1100, we’re stuck behind a prosaic parade of RV’s, camper vans, and Teslas all waiting to enter. There are five entrances to the park. Fish Camp was closest to our day one destination, Mariposa Grove.
https://www.myyosemitepark.com/park/which-yosemite-entrance
Yosemite NP currently requires a $35 reservation pass per car which is available exactly at 0700 two days before. There are some alternatives, but those require a bit more planning. So create a national parks account at https://www.recreation.gov/ticket/facility/300015 the night before, set your alarm clock for 0650, and grab your entry pass exactly two days before your visit. This pass will be valid for up to a week, but you must enter the park on the day you select. The system is built well, currently there are no workarounds if you get to the park without an entry pass.
Now back to that long wait.
I hear from the locals that this is a common theme when entering the park, but the covid restrictions have actually helped us breeze through the gates within a few minutes. Less people allowed in = shorter wait times. So, It’s minute 48, I’m impatient, hungry, and insisting on sandwiches and/or photoshoots.
Sean hits me with the best of both worlds, only to find that we’re in the park in the next five minutes. Our main hike is next to the south entrance, Mariposa Grove of the Giant Sequoias. How magical does that sound? We park, peel off layers, and fill our hydropacks while the hazy clouds sprinkle us with ash.
The skies are both somber and beautiful. Local fires have engulfed hundreds of thousands of acres on all sides of the park. Today, we are thankful for Yosemite’s perseverance. With all of the shuttles shut down, we begin a 2 mile trek to the Grove’s entrance under a neon sun.
The entrance of Mariposa Grove boasts a ranger hosting crafts and a beautifully built pathway juxtaposed the tallest trees I’d ever seen. With colossal trunks, the sequoias sit like an orchestra of angels at the gates of heaven. The Grove is home to more than 500 mature sequoias, showcasing several of the largest trees in the world.
Embedded in the concentration of titanic trees, the next mile of easy hiking was sprawled along a wide, suspended pathway. The trees grow best in moist soil so this newly constructed track gives the trees their preferred conditions and visitors a pretty panorama. The sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum) (amazing) is native to California, only growing on a 260-mile strip on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountains. Sequoias are the tallest trees on earth. Falling into the same category as wine and cheese, these babes just get grander with age.
The Grizzly Giant
As they age, these magnificent trees often grow a “door” or a tent-like cavity in the base of the tree. The Grizzly Giant is about 3,000 years old and as tall as the statue of liberty.
The sequoias have adapted to survive the indubitable California wildfires and droughts with their strong trunks and thick root systems. But when these natural disasters strike, they can weaken the shallow root base, ultimately causing the trees to tip, exposing arguably the most beautiful and intricate part of the tree.
The Fallen Monarch
Root systems will only grow 6 feet deep but can spread 150 feet from the tree base.
We keep trekking along. Past the paved pathways and strollered babies, the trail increases in intensity. So does the sky. Sorbet colored skies and a florescent sun lead the way to a strenuous trail peak called Wawona Point. Once we make it to the Mariposa Grove Trail, our only hiking buddy is a cotton-tailed babe who’s totally gone rogue.
Another four miles slip by as we drift from one fairy tale to another. A blend of intimidating and inviting, these trees beg for company.
Pausing minutes from the peak to absorb the juicy atmosphere we’ve been swimming through.
At Wawona Point, the haze obstructs views of the Merced River but we can still see the Wawona Meadow and Dome. At an elevation of 6,900 feet, my lungs are burning, calves throbbing, but damn, we’ve got the place to ourselves.
This is what it’s about.
Wawona Point
Our walk back feels easier than ever. Endorphins acting like lit arrows on a Mario Kart race track. We play catch with mammoth sized pine cones as we finish our 12-mile hike back to the car.
Our last leg of the day will take us on a sunset car ride, two hours to the closest available campsite. Holiday trips during covid are ambitious but guaranteed to keep you on your toes. Go with the flow and look at the closures, detours, and lack of bathrooms as fun surprises! To a Jamestown campground (or farm) we go.
day two
Sweet piggy snouts and chubby little bellies meander around our tent after a warm summer sleep. It’s 0800 and you can feel the heat billowing through the tent walls. Is this an Indian summer or are the fires closer than we thought? At this point, more than 600 fires have engulfed over two million precious acres. We are wading through scorched air, I’m hoping the park gates are open today. I remind myself to relax and absorb the gentle wake up call from Mr. Bourbon.
Once in a lifetime.
We’re packing the car as Momma Pegg, our host, greets us with fresh fruit and muffins. She’s got a checkered apron and a story to tell. The conversation is easy and Jamestown just got a bit cozier. This spot was listed on both HipCamp and AirBnB. We’ll often search for outdoor campsites/glampsites/tree house stays. Absolutely recommend if you’re seeking quirky adventures. Today, we’re breezing through the entrance gate, getting to Yosemite Valley at 1100.
PRIORITIES
We find a scenic park bench on the Merced River and whip up some pulled pork nachos.
Full-bellied, we wade through the pebbly river, soaking our sore toes and gazing at Half Dome. My newest bucket-list addition. Our day continues through the Valley, every turn feels surreal. Completely engulfed by tall granite walls brushed with fuzzy tree sillhouettes.
Oh, magical Yosemite.
And a magical sky. This photo was taken at 1500. How it’s so bright and dark at the same time… More podcasts and 2000’s hip-hop in the queue, let’s head home.
